Central City chef and entrepreneur Judi Fourie reveals how the pandemic not only tested her one-year-old eatery, Pilcrow & Cleaver, but inspired her to start a new business, Fideli’s.
Words have power. One person who knows this well is Chef Judi Fourie. When she opened the doors of her first CBD eatery in December 2019, she named it Pilcrow & Cleaver. A pilcrow (¶) is a symbol used to mark a new paragraph, while a cleaver is a tool used by butchers to chop meat. To her, the pilcrow signified a fresh start and the cleaver, her favourite kitchen tool, indicated strength and “the chefs coming forward”.
At the time, she had no idea the first year of running her restaurant would coincide with a devastating pandemic. But true to her statement of intent, she has been resolute and, exhibiting enormous resolve and courage, has gone one step further by opening an adjacent offering called Fideli’s.
TESTING TIMES
“The pandemic has tested my resilience,” says Judi. “At the beginning of Lockdown, we had to adapt to only doing deliveries and take-aways.” This is what was allowed during Level 4 of the lockdown to stem the spread of the coronavirus. As restrictions kept easing, Pilcrow & Cleaver continued adjusting and trading.
Judi says they were able to stay true to their essence because the restaurant is built on change and their weekly menu is a testament to this. “Our menu still changes significantly every week, and this still depends on seasonal produce. The weekly change also ignites my creativity and passion as a chef to be on the cusp of life and all it brings to the table,” she says.
The upside with challenges is that they provide lessons. For Judi, running Pilcrow & Cleaver in downtown Cape Town during a pandemic has taught her how dynamic the Central City can be. “A Monday can be busier than a Saturday and rainy days busier than a beach day, so we are always prepared. That’s the beauty of the inner city though, it’s real, not seasonal.”
With the pandemic taking its toll, Judi reminded herself that “after the Spanish flu came the rip-roaring Twenties” and with that in mind, she started planning Fideli’s and its opening.
Chef Judi Fourie outside Fideli's
THE CENTRAL CITY'S HONEST GROCER
Fideli’s opened on 13 December 2020, exactly a year after Pilcrow & Cleaver, and in the adjacent premises. The business operates as a restaurant, beer garden, deli and grocer. It also boasts a range of local South African wines. Each product on the shelves, such as their ABALOBI fish, can be traced back to its source which comprises places like Epping to as far as Polokwane.
Judi says the word “fidelis” is of Latin origin and means “always faithful”. “This gives meaning to our ethos to always be loyal to the ingredients,” she says. Perhaps this is also her declaring her faithfulness or affinity to Speakers’ Corner on Parliament Street since Fideli’s is right next door to Pilcrow & Cleaver. Judi, who spent a decade overseas, previously described this location as up and coming and having a European feel.
She says the inspiration behind the new venture is bringing patrons closer to small producers and farmers. “We want to give customers a taste of local ingredients and their origins and to inspire people to take our products to the heart of their home,” she explains. With the pandemic inspiring some people to dine at home, Fideli’s also sells ready-to-go meals which are perfect for lunch or a light dinner at home or in the office which goes to show how in tune the entrepreneur is with her customers' needs and changing circumstances. She applauds her customers for“venturing out to seek, support and taste something new”.
With Pilcrow & Cleaver, Judi aimed to bring chefs to the forefront, breaking free from the tradition that patrons could access the cooks. This is why she introduced a concept that included an open-plan kitchen and restaurant that didn’t have waiters. This thread is carried through to Fideli’s.
Says Judi: “Fideli’s operates on the same principle as Pilcrow & Cleaver. We don’t have waiters and follow a no-tipping policy. We highly encourage our patrons to request the barista or chef for recommendations. The atmosphere of the city, the items on our menu and my team are the biggest drawcard to Fideli’s.”
She adds that they’re “thankful for operating in a supportive space such as Church Square and invite people to rediscover the beauty of the inner-city.”
IMAGES: CCID