In the past decade, entrepreneur Jacqui Simpson has transformed St Georges Mall with the Earth Fair Food Market. She talks about how she turned the movement to sourcing and eating ethically into a business opportunity and her plans to refresh the market in 2020.
Traders are setting up at the Earth Fair Food Market (now called the St Georges Food Market) in St Georges Mall but the weather is not playing ball. It’s the last Thursday before the market closes for the holiday break, and it’s blustery and rainy and chilly, too.
The weather is one of the challenges facing the market, admits entrepreneur and market founder/owner, Jacqui Simpson. “We do have to run with the elements,” she concedes. “But unless there is constant heavy rain, most of the 30 traders are here, and we trade, come rain or shine.”
The other challenge facing the market is the tight economy. Patrons who used to get their weekly fix of the market’s many culinary delights, now often only come every second week. Then there’s also the looming December break when customers are on leave and visitors are not plentiful. But, says Jacqui, other than those two, the market is “a real joy”.
Fast-forward to February, and the market it is full swing. With its array of interesting and tasty offerings, it has enlivened St Georges Mall every Thursday from 11h00 to 15h00 for nearly a decade. Something of a trail-blazer (like Jacqui herself), the market turns 10 this month.
A MAGICAL DECADE
At the time, Jacqui realised that people were moving towards living and eating more consciously; they wanted more wholesome food, produced ethically and organically, and that came with a more personal touch. “Markets were an ideal way to buy into this trend,” she explains, “as they introduced a holistic approach to food and catered for people who were mindful of the quality of the food they were eating and its provenance.”
With a background in the corporate food industry and having run her own research company (where she did research for food companies), Jacqui (47) was keen to do something new. “I was disillusioned with the mainstream food industry, and intrigued by this trend towards sustainability and authenticity. I bought into it, and wanted to support small suppliers and local industries, especially ethical farmers.”
So she established the Earth Fair Food Market, first in Tokai and then a year later in St Georges Mall, so that people could access fresh produce directly from small suppliers. “The Tokai market is a big fresh produce market, you go there to buy fresh veggies, fruit, herbs … so it is different to the St Georges Mall market, which focuses more on the lunchtime trade with food stalls, even though there is a fresh veggie trader.”
Like Tokai, from the beginning, the St Georges Mall market became popular very quickly, mostly by word-of-mouth. “It took a while to cut through the red tape, but the City of Cape Town and Cape Town Tourism were keen to promote the mall, and encourage more people to visit this part of town.” And from then on, it’s been all systems go.
SECRETS OF SUCCESS
Jacqui believes both markets introduced “a holistic approach to food, catering for people who want to eat more ethically and are mindful of the quality of food and its source”.
“I carefully select traders that fit these criteria, and also look for balance as I do not want traders to compete for business amongst each other,” she explains. “I try to get traders with local and international flavour so patrons can experience the true street market vibe.”
Her 30 traders, who pay a fee to trade, have either been sourced by her or they’ve applied to join the market, and she clearly enjoys a good relationship with them as several have been with her from day one. “I don’t have a high turnover of traders, and many of them, including “Stokkiesdraai” (biltong stall), Dr Juice, Redi’s Sushi and Grub Burgers (“he has a reputation for the best burgers in town”) have been with me for 10 years.” Judging from the queues forming at Grub (owned and manned by Jack Malherbe), Jacqui’s instinct for selecting the right kind of trader is spot on.
Other than the selection of traders and the fact that they all have a strong connection, Jacqui says the fact that the market is interactive also contributes to its appeal. “People like to watch their food being made in front of them as it is a very visual experience, and these traders do very well,” she notes.
Jacqui, who was born in Durban but grew up in Jozi, believes markets need to offer something extra-special (well, she’s ticked that box!) but they also need to evolve. “People are more price-conscious, and markets, therefore, need to offer more of an experience … for this market that would entail getting performers to entertain patrons while they’re eating etc. Generating an atmosphere is important,” she says.
FACING THE FUTURE
For this reason, she plans to re-evaluate St Georges Market – and she now has the time to explore taking it to the next level as she sold the Tokai Earth Fair Market late last year. Running three markets (Tokai Earth Fare is on a Wednesday evening and Saturday morning) took its toll on Jacqui’s personal life and she would like more time to focus on her family. “I have three children, and my youngest is only seven years old. When I had all three markets, I was busy every weekend, and it became a challenge for me and my family,” she explains. “I want to spend more time with my little one.”
It’s heartening to know she is not relinquishing St Georges Market and exciting things are in store for loyal patrons. “I like trading here,” she confirms. “It is busy and there is a great vibe, a mixed clientele and a beautiful setting and interesting buildings. What more could I ask for?”
IMAGES: CCID