Judi Fourie’s 10-year global culinary journey has culminated in Pilcrow & Cleaver, an exciting new Central City eaterie.
A pilcrow (¶) is a symbol used to mark a new paragraph, while a cleaver is a tool used by butchers to chop meat. They might make for an unusual pairing but for Cape Town chef Judi Fourie, who has just opened the East City restaurant Pilcrow & Cleaver, they are symbolic: the pilcrow yields a fresh start and the cleaver is not only Chef Judi’s culinary tool of choice but one that signifies strength and “the chefs coming forward”.
The latter is what drives the philosophy behind her restaurant which opened on Speakers’ Corner on 37 Parliament Street in December 2019. “I’ve always felt that chefs were behind the scenes, and this led to miscommunication between the chefs, guests and waiters. With Pilcrow & Cleaver, I wanted to bring chefs to the forefront,” she explains. So, at Chef Judi’s restaurant, there are no waiters. The patrons interact directly with the chefs, who also serve the food. There are also no physical boundaries as the kitchen is open-plan: there are no doors, windows or walls enclosing the space. Much like the restaurant’s name, Judi’s immersive concept – and food – has sparked a lot of well-deserved interest. Says Judi: “Since we opened our doors we’ve been full almost every night and we’re getting great reviews.”
Judi chose Speakers’ Corner because “it’s new and upcoming”, further building on the “fresh start” angle. She says: “You get a feeling of being in a big-city restaurant. I also love that the area has a European feel to it,” she explains. Pilcrow & Cleaver is certainly in fine company with the likes of FYN Restaurant, Labotessa Boutique Hotel (which has in-house restaurant, Starlings) and Kleinsky’s Delicatessen.
CHANGING MENUS AND BOLD FLAVOURS
It’s not just the name and concept that’s different about Pilcrow & Cleaver. The establishment’s mouth-watering menus of small plates, mains and desserts with bold and modern flavours changes weekly. And as with everything at Pilcrow & Cleaver, it’s carefully considered.
Every week, Judi plans her European-inspired menus with a South African flair. The final product depends on the fresh produce available and is influenced by the seasons. Having spent a decade overseas, Judi’s menus are also inspired by her travels. She says this invaluable experience has not only enriched her dishes but her ability to interact with people from different cultures.
It’s therefore unsurprising when she notes that the biggest hit on the menu so far has been the Duck Rendang. While meat-lovers are catered for (Pork Belly, Roasted Caramel Potatoes & Prunes has featured on the menu as well as Brisket & Chuck Grass-fed Burger), customers who prefer vegan and plant-based options get to sample the delectable fare of plant-based Speciality Chef Leigh Steven-Jennings.
“We don’t want to leave anyone out, so in addition to meat and pescatarian options, we have vegan and plant-based options. And as I have a background in health and wellness, I also offer recommendations and advice to customers on making better decisions when it comes to food,” says Leigh, a former restaurant owner.
Chef Judi Fourie (left) with plant-based chef, Leigh Steven-Jennings
A LOVE AFFAIR WITH FOOD
Like Leigh, Judi is on a mission to change patrons’ dining experience. When asked how her love of food came about, Judi - who trained at the Silwood School of Cookery in Rondebosch, Cape Town - explains that she’s been cooking since she was 15 years old. “I grew up around food as my grandad had restaurants. At 15, I was making desserts and food at home,” she says.
Her favourite childhood meal, that she still makes to this day, is a Sunday Roast. “I also love braaiing and lentil dishes. I love simple foods, and when I’m with friends, I like to make what they enjoy,” says Judi. When she’s not indulging in her own dishes, Judi indulges in food from her favourite restaurants which include Kloof Street House, Shio Restaurant and The Shortmarket Club.
True to her ethos of sharing and creating memories, Pilcrow & Cleaver also boasts Judi’s impressive bespoke cookbook collection, which customers are encouraged to enjoy. And not surprisingly, she reveals she is currently working on her own cookbook.
While on a personal note her restaurant marks Judi’s new paragraph, there’s no doubt that as Inside Guide succinctly puts it, the beautifully designed and inviting Pilcrow & Cleaver also “marks the start of a different (new) culinary wave in Cape Town”. Bravo, Chef!
IMAGES: CCID; Pilcrow & Cleaver